Journal
Are Magnetic Bases Worth It for Heavy Resin Miniatures?
Magnetic bases keep heavy resin miniatures stable in transit. Compare foam trays, magnet sizing, glue and storage tips to protect your models.
Last Updated: November 1, 2026
Quick Summary
Magnetic bases are worth it for heavy resin miniatures because a magnetized base locks the model to a metal tray so it cannot shift, rattle, or drop, while foam sags under heavy resin and can snap thin ankles or weapon hafts. Match magnet size to model weight and keep the magnet flush with the base underside.
- Pick a rigid metal tray or steel-lined box over thin magnetic sheet for heavy models.
- Holding strength collapses with air gap, so keep the magnet flush with the base underside.
- Use two-part epoxy or gel cyanoacrylate, not thin superglue, to bond magnets to resin bases.
- Drill a recess slightly wider than the magnet, test-fit it, then glue and check pull on a metal tray.
- A top-heavy resin model on a narrow base will tip in play no matter how strong the magnet is.
Table of Contents
- Magnetic Bases vs Foam Trays: Which Protects Heavy Resin Miniatures Better?
- The Case for Magnets for Miniature Bases (and Where They Fall Short)
- Magnetic Miniature Storage: A Practical Setup Guide
- How to Stop Miniatures from Tipping Over on the Table and in the Case
- The Best Glue for Resin Miniatures: Bonding Magnets Without Cracking the Base
- Attaching Magnets to Bases: Step-by-Step for Resin Models
- Cost, Setup Effort, and Long-Term Maintenance
- Upgrade Your Heavy Resin Army with Noble Nerds Miniatures
- Frequently Asked Questions
Magnetic Bases vs Foam Trays: Which Protects Heavy Resin Miniatures Better?
Magnetic bases are worth it for heavy resin miniatures when the model's weight and brittle resin construction make foam trays a liability. Foam cradles a model, but a heavy resin piece sinks into soft foam and snaps at thin ankles or weapon hafts. A magnetized base locks the model to a metal tray so it cannot shift, rattle, or drop.
Detailed resin models raise a transport question for many hobbyists. Foam suits light plastic infantry and odd-shaped models with fragile spurs. For broader guidance on protecting painted miniatures from chips and wear, see our guide to protecting painted gaming miniatures. Magnets suit heavy, top-heavy, or carefully painted models.
Side-by-Side Transport System Comparison
| Factor | Foam Tray | Magnetic Base + Metal Tray |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy resin support | Sags, compresses | Holds firm by contact |
| Sliding and rattling | Model shifts in cutout | None once seated |
| Setup effort | Cut foam to fit | Drill, glue, cure |
| Damage risk to paint | Rubbing at contact points | Minimal once cured |
| Cost | Low upfront | Higher upfront, reusable |
| Storage capacity | Bulky per model | Compact, stackable |
Where Foam Still Wins
Foam remains the better call for light plastic models, irregular silhouettes that a flat base cannot grip, and anyone who refuses to drill a base.
The Case for Magnets for Miniature Bases (and Where They Fall Short)
Magnets for miniature bases solve the two failures that ruin heavy resin: sliding and rattling. A seated magnet creates a flat, stable contact that no foam cutout matches. A weak magnet on a heavy model will not hold well, and an oversized magnet may stress a thin base during installation.
Magnet Strength and Sizing by Model Weight
Match magnet size to model weight rather than base diameter. A small disc suits light infantry; a wide, thick disc suits a heavy centerpiece. Overhang matters as much as pull: a magnet wider than the base's flat underside will not seat flush. When in doubt, step up one size and use two magnets rather than one oversized disc.
Magnet-to-Metal Distance and Holding Strength
Holding strength collapses with air gap. A magnet buried under a thick base or a layer of putty loses much of its pull before it ever touches metal. Keep the magnet flush with the base underside, or recess it so only a thin skin of material sits between magnet and tray. Base thickness is the quiet killer of magnetic hold.
Magnetic Miniature Storage: A Practical Setup Guide
Magnetic miniature storage starts with three decisions: the metal surface, the magnet size, and how models sit without touching. Getting these right helps a case keep models stable and organized.
Choosing a Magnetic Sheet or Metal Tray
Pick a rigid metal tray or a steel-lined box over thin magnetic sheet for heavy models. Sheet is fine for light infantry; heavy resin needs a surface that will not flex under load. Test pull before committing: place a loaded model on the surface and tilt it slightly. If it creeps, the surface or magnet is too weak.
Preventing Models from Sliding or Rattling
Space models so bases cannot contact each other, and add a thin foam or felt layer above the bases to stop vertical rattle. Label tray positions so each model returns to the same spot.
How to Stop Miniatures from Tipping Over on the Table and in the Case
Stopping miniatures from tipping over comes down to center of gravity and contact. On the table, a wider base or a weighted base lowers the tipping point. In the case, a seated magnet plus spacing prevents the sideways slide that snaps ankles and weapons.
Watch out: a top-heavy resin model on a narrow base will tip in play no matter how strong the magnet is. Fix the base, not the magnet. For breakage prevention, see our tips on preventing broken miniature parts, and if a heavy model does snap, our guide to fixing broken resin miniatures walks through the repair.
The Best Glue for Resin Miniatures: Bonding Magnets Without Cracking the Base
The best glue for resin miniatures is a two-part epoxy or a gel cyanoacrylate, not thin superglue. Thin CA wicks into resin, cures fast, and can stress or crack a thin base as it sets. Epoxy can fill gaps and cures more slowly than thin CA.
Resin-specific risk: drilling too close to the base edge can split the material before glue is even involved. Drill slightly oversized, test-fit the magnet, then bond. For deeper guidance on working with detailed castings, our tips for painting detailed resin models are worth a read before you start.
Attaching Magnets to Bases: Step-by-Step for Resin Models
Attaching magnets to bases can take a short while per model once you have a rhythm. The sequence matters more than the tools.
- Mark the underside center and drill a recess slightly wider than the magnet.
- Test-fit the magnet; it should sit flush or just below the surface.
- Clean dust from the recess and let it dry fully.
- Apply epoxy or gel CA to the recess, not the magnet face.
- Seat the magnet with correct polarity facing out, and hold until set.
- Check pull on a metal tray before the glue fully cures.
- Add a thin protective layer over the magnet if the base is thin.
Expected result: the model seats flat, resists a tilt test, and shows no cracking at the base edge.
Cost, Setup Effort, and Long-Term Maintenance
Magnets cost more upfront than foam and demand real setup time, but the system is reusable across armies and years. Foam wears out and gets cut to one model's shape. Re-seat any loose magnet before it becomes a lost model.
Upgrade Your Heavy Resin Army with Noble Nerds Miniatures
If you are building a heavy resin force, start with models worth protecting. The Rancor Pack ($130.00) and the Helldivers Pack ($100.00) are detailed tabletop wargaming sets, and the Adventure Time Orks ($60.00) include six custom bases. Every Noble Nerds order carries a one-year guarantee, and replacements are simple and cost-free.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are magnetic bases worth it for heavy resin miniatures?
For most heavy resin models, yes. A magnetized base spreads the hold across the whole base instead of gripping one point, which reduces sliding and rattling in a case. The trade-off is setup time and the need to match magnet strength to model weight. Very tall, top-heavy resin pieces may still need foam or custom cutouts around fragile parts. If you transport regularly, magnetic bases usually pay for themselves in fewer repairs.
What size magnet should I use for a resin miniature base?
Match magnet diameter to base size and thickness to model weight. A common starting point is a 3mm thick magnet for standard 25-32mm bases, moving up to 5mm or stacking two magnets for heavy models on 40mm or larger bases. The magnet must sit flush or slightly recessed so the base still contacts the metal tray. Test the pull before you glue: if the model lifts off the tray with a light tug, go bigger.
Can you add magnets to an already assembled miniature base?
Yes. Turn the model upside down and drill a shallow recess with a pin vise, keeping the bit smaller than the magnet. Check depth often so you do not break through the base top. Clean the dust, test-fit the magnet, then glue it with a gap-filling cyanoacrylate or two-part epoxy. If the base is hollow, add a small disc of styrene or epoxy putty inside first so the magnet has something solid to bond to.
Do magnetic bases hold miniatures securely during transport?
They hold well when the magnet-to-metal distance is short and the magnet is sized for the model's weight. A metal tray or magnetic sheet in a rigid box keeps models from sliding. Heavy resin models with a high center of gravity can still tip if the case is dropped, so pack taller pieces toward the center and keep a finger on the tray when lifting it. Test each model with a gentle shake before you trust it in a bag.
Are magnetic bases better than glue for gaming miniatures?
They solve different problems. Glue fixes a model permanently to one base, which is fine for display pieces. Magnetic bases let you swap bases, remove models for storage, and move a whole tray at once. For heavy resin models that see regular transport, a magnetized base plus a metal tray is usually more practical than glue alone. Many hobbyists glue the model to its base and magnetize the underside of that base.
Heavy resin rewards the right transport system, and foam rarely keeps up with it. If you want models built for the table and the case, browse our best resin miniatures for display and see what belongs in your next army. Get started with Noble Nerds and give your heaviest models a base that holds.
